Prokletije / Bjeshkët e Nemuna

The Prokletije (Albanian: Bjeshkët e Nemuna) are part of the Dinaric Alps, forming its rugged southeastern peripheral group that ends at the Drin River in Albania. This mountain space, unique in both the Balkans and Europe, is administratively divided into three parts: the Montenegrin, Albanian, and Kosovar Prokletije.

For a long period, these were practically “forbidden mountains.” Following the political conflict triggered by the 1948 Informbiro Resolution, the state border between the SFR Yugoslavia and the Republic of Albania was strictly militarized. For five decades, until 1998, this high-mountain region was home to the most heavily guarded border in Europe.

Thanks to the mountaineering transversal established in 1957 by the PD “Prokletije” Peć (Albanian: Peja), many hikers were able to discover the beauty of the massif on the Yugoslav side. Meanwhile, the Albanian side remained largely unexplored, shrouded in mystery.

With the independence of Montenegro and Kosovo, the borders with Albania were demilitarized and placed under the supervision of border police. This finally realized the noble, long-held vision of “Prokletije Without Borders.” For us mountaineers, this was a moment of great joy—the chance to finally explore the entire massif across all three countries.

Many nature lovers share the same sentiment: these mountains possess a unique beauty and a “wild romance” found nowhere else. They are often considered the most stunning mountains in the Balkans. Because of this untouched wilderness, Prokletije is home to three National Parks: in the Plav-Gusinje region of Montenegro, and in the Valbona and Theth valleys of Albania.

Text and photography by: Braco Babić

The Prokletije (Albanian: Bjeshkët e Nâmuna) form the southeastern peripheral group of the Dinaric Alps, reaching their end at the Drin River in Albania. This unique mountain region—one of the most distinct in Europe—is administratively divided into three sections: the Montenegrin, Albanian, and Kosovar Prokletije. They stretch along the borders of eastern Montenegro, northern Albania, and the western and southern parts of Kosovo, covering a total area of approximately 3,500 km². The largest portion of the range lies within Albania, while the remaining third is shared between Montenegro and Kosovo. The highest peak of the entire Prokletije range is Maja e Jezercës (2,694 m a.s.l.) in Albania, which also holds the title of the highest peak in the entire Dinaric Alps. Each section of the range boasts its own giants: Đerovica / Maja e Gjeravicës (2,656 m a.s.l.) is the highest peak of the Kosovar Prokletije, the highest point in Kosovo, and the second-highest peak in the entire Prokletije massif. Zla Kolata / Kollata e Keqe (2,534 m a.s.l.) is the highest peak of the Montenegrin Prokletije and the highest point in all of Montenegro.

The oldest recorded name for these mountains is Mons Bertiscus, appearing on a map created by the ancient Greek mathematician, geographer, and astronomer Claudius Ptolemaeus (83 – 161 BC). In some later ancient maps, the name Beriseldi appears instead of Bertiscus.

For centuries, the Prokletije remained a mystery to the outside world. It wasn't until the first half of the 19th century that the first naturalists and explorers arrived, led by geographers, biologists, and geologists. The French-Austrian scientist Ami Boué (1794 – 1881) described the Prokletije as: “The most inaccessible and wildest mountain range on the Balkan Peninsula.” Similarly, the German botanist and phytogeographer August Grisebach (1814 – 1879) dubbed them the “Southern Alps of Europe,” a synonym that perfectly captures the character of this mountain group.

The Serbian geographer and geologist, Prof. Dr. Jovan Cvijić (1865 – 1927), conducted significant field research in the karst landscapes of the Prokletije. He noted that this is one of the few mountain groups in the Balkans where the effects of the glacial period are so vividly visible—with deep, wide valleys carved and shaped by the movement of glaciers, from which rise many rocky peaks of fascinating forms.

From a mountaineering perspective, the Prokletije were once very rarely visited. It was only after the establishment of the Prokletije Mountaineering Transversal in 1957 that we saw a significant increase in hikers on the Yugoslav side of the range. To make the peaks more accessible, mountain huts were built at key locations: the Jelinak hut in Bjeluha, and others in Boga, Čakor, Pločice (below Đerovica), Slane Poljane (Ljumbard mountain), and the Grebaja valley.

The Prokletije were documented by renowned Yugoslav mountaineers and explorers, including Prof. Dr. Branimir Gušić, Prof. Dr. Željko Poljak, Branislav Cerović, Rado Kočevar, Mirko Marković, Miodrag Božinović, Branko Kotlajić, Velibor Stanišić, Stanislav Gilić, Uzeir Beširović, Franci Savenc, and many others. Their travelogues, published in mountaineering journals such as HPS’s “Naše planine” and PZS’s “Planinski vestnik”, were the most-read stories of their time. These writings finally lifted the veil of mystery from the unknown expanses of the Prokletije.

The relief of the Prokletije is rugged, with numerous high and striking peaks, deep gorges, steep slopes, river valleys of the Alpine type, and other natural phenomena. On the Prokletije, many high peaks are located on the border line of three states, and in the following list, next to the name and altitude, stands the mark: CG (Montenegro), K (Kosovo), A (Albania).

The highest peaks in the Montenegrin part are: Zla Kolata / Kollata e Keqe (2,534 m) – CG / A, Dobra Kolata / Kollata e Mires (2,528 m) – CG / A, Rosni vrh / Maja Rosit (2,524 m) – CG / A, Veliki vrh / Kremeni vrh / Maja e Gurte e Zjarmit (2,490 m), Sjeverni vrh / Maja e Balles (2,460 m), Južni vrh / Zlovrh / Maja e Keqe (2,441 m), Crni krš / Bandera (2,426 m), Maja e Preht (2,408 m), Pasji vrh (2,405 m) – CG / K, Hajla (2,403 m) – CG / K, Krš Bogićevica (2,374 m), Orlov krš / Maja e Male (2,372 m) – CG / K, Tromeđa / Trekufir (2,366 m) – CG / A / K, Žljeb (2,365 m), Veliki Hridski krš (2,358 m), Starac (2,352 m), etc.

The highest peaks in the Kosovar part are: Maja e Gjeravicës / Đerovica (2,656 m), Maja e Gusanit (2,539 m) – K / A, Marijash / Bogdaš (2,533 m), Guri i Kuq / Žuti kamen (2,522 m), Maja e Ropës (2,501 m), Guri i Zi (2,470 m), Veternik / Koprivnik (2,461 m), Maja e Barl (2,425 m) – K / A, Velika Podina (2,424 m), Vrh Čvrlje (2,413 m), Pasji vrh (2,405 m) – K / CG, Maja Bogicaj (2,404 m) – K / A, Hajla (2,403 m) – K / CG, Rusolija (2,381 m), Maja Streoc (2,377 m), Maja e Male / Orlov krš (2,372 m) – K / CG, Tromeđa / Trekufir (2,366 m) – CG / A / K, Žljeb (2,365 m), Maja e ram arucit (2,358 m) – K / A, etc.

The highest peaks in the Albanian part are: Maja e Jezercës / Jezerski vrh (2,694 m), Maja Grykat e Hapëta (2,625 m), Maja Radohines (2,570 m), Maja e Popllukës (2,569 m), Maja Brijaset (2,567 m), Maja e Paces (2,561 m), Maja e Hekurave (2,560 m), Podi e Kolatës / Ravna Kolata (2,556 m), Maja e Madhe (2,554 m), Maja Koprishtit (2,554 m), Maja e Lagovjet (2,545 m), Maja e Fat (2,543 m), Kollata e Keqe / Zla Kolata (2,534 m) – A / CG, Maja Gavnit (2,530 m), Kollata e Mires / Dobra Kolata (2,528 m) – A / CG, Maja e Ismet Bruca (2,525 m), Maja Rosit / Rosni vrh (2,524 m) – A / CG, Maja Vinsens (2,517 m), Maja e Kokervhakes (2,508 m), Maja Shkurz (2,499 m), Maja Reshkulit (2,498 m), Maja e Livadit (2,496 m), Maja e Kolacit (2,490 m), Maja e Ragamit (2,472 m), Maja e Aljis (2,471 m), Maja Preht (2,466 m), Maja Bojs (2,461 m), Maja Prozmit (2,452 m), Maja Vukoces (2,450 m), Maja Sjapit (2,450 m), Maja Xhevarhirit (2,445 m), Maja Kuci (2,438 m), Maja e Cet Harushes (2,424 m), Maja e Malisorës (2,421 m), Maja e Boshit (2,416 m), Maja Nigvacit (2,412 m), Maja e Desles (2,403 m), Maja e Zez (2,400 m), etc.

Across the wider area of the Prokletije, three distinct climate zones stand out: temperate-continental (500 – 800 m a.s.l.), sub-mountain (800 – 1,200 m a.s.l.), and mountain (above 2,000 m a.s.l.). These zones are characterized by short, fresh summers and long, moderately cold winters, with a relatively high annual sum of precipitation. Autumns here are warmer than springs, and the vegetation period is notably short.

The Prokletije have always captured the attention of botanists and scientists as an inexhaustible field of research. Rare plant species, medicinal herbs, and wild fruits represent the natural wealth of this range. Many medicinal, honey-bearing, aromatic, and vitamin-rich species thrive in this pristine space. The most well-known medicinal plants include: wild thyme, yarrow, rose hip, hawthorn blossom, dandelion, horsetail, marshmallow, nettle, sweet fern, chicory, gentian, hellebore, valerian, lily of the valley, primrose, and others. Forest and field fruits are also significantly represented: blueberries, wild strawberries, raspberries, blackberries, juniper, and many species of edible mushrooms (chanterelle, porcini, saffron milk cap, oyster mushroom, morel, parasol mushroom, button mushroom, etc.).

The Prokletije abound in a rich and diverse fauna of mammals, birds, fish, amphibians, and insects. The most significant game species inhabiting the high-mountain zone are the brown bear, wolf, wild boar, chamois, and roe deer. Small game includes the fox, hare, badger, polecat, otter, marten, and squirrel. The bird population is equally impressive, featuring the golden eagle, short-toed snake eagle, common buzzard, imperial eagle, mountain eagle, griffon vulture, vulture, western capercaillie, black grouse, northern goshawk, peregrine falcon, Eurasian hobby, grey partridge, rock partridge, common quail, hazel grouse, woodcock, and more.

The floristic composition of the Prokletije includes numerous rare, endemic, relict, and protected plant species. Among them are Balkan, European, and world-class floristic rarities. In addition to herbaceous plants, there are many species of relict and endemic dendroflora (trees) that attract the attention of naturalists and hikers alike. Of particular interest are the Bosnian pine (munika), Macedonian pine (molika), yew, and mountain maple.    

Prokletije su bogate vodom i čine razvođe jadranskog i crnomorskog sliva. U nižim predjelima su izvorišta velikih rijeka: Ljumi i Valbons (Valbona), Ljumi i Shales (Lesnices), Ljumi i Curajt (Nikajt), Ljumi i Cem (Cijevna), Lim, Tara, Ibar, Drinit të Bardhë (Bijeli Drim), Erenik (Ribnik), Pećka Bistrica i Dečanska Bistrica.

Na Prokletijama je veliki broj lijepih jezera ledenjačkog porijekla. Na području Crne Gore: Plavsko jezero (906 m), Visitorsko jezero (1734 m), Hridsko jezero (1968 m), Bukumirsko jezero (1450 m) i Rikavačko jezero (1313 m).
Na području Kosova: Kučiško jezero (1850 m) i Dreljsko jezero (1750 m) na Malji necinat, Veliko jezero i Malo jezero (2350 m) pod vrhom Đeravica / Maja e Gjeravicës, Tropojsko jezero (2220 m) pod vrhom Maja e ram arucit i Veliko jezero (2340 m) pod vrhom Maja e Gusanit.
Na području Albanije: u Doberdolu je smještena veća skupina jezera na nadomorskoj visini od 1900 – 2100 m, zatim Buni i Jezercës (2200 m) skupina od šest jezera smještena u slikovitoj dolini pod najvišim vrhom Prokletija – Jezerski vrh / Maja e Jezercës.

The Prokletije Mountaineering Transversal

• Founder: PD “Đerovica“ Peć / alb. Peja
• Established: 1957
• Duration: 12 days
• Number of Checkpoints: 27 CP
• Checkpoint Names and Altitudes: Peć / alb. Peja (550 m), Hasanov vrh (1,871 m), peak Rusolija / Žljeb (2,381 m), peak Ahmica / Štedim (2,272 m), peak Hajla (2,403 m), mountain hut in Boga (1,540 m), tourist house in Kućište (1,110 m), Jelinak mountain hut in the Bjeluha valley (1,410 m), peak Vaganica (2,112 m), peak Planinica (2,077 m), mountain hut on the Čakor pass (1,849 m), peak Djevojački krš (2,046 m), peak Crni krš / Bandera (2,426 m), peak Maja e Bajrakut (2,078 m), peak Bogdaš / alb. Marijash (2,533 m), peak Hridski krš / Bogićevica (2,358 m), Hridsko Lake (1,968 m), katun Kofiljača (1,650 m), Plav (945 m), Vokšanske pločice mountain hut (2,070 m), peak Đerovica / alb. Maja e Gjeravicës (2,656 m), Kućiško Lake (1,850 m), peak Žuti kamen (2,522 m), mountain hut on Slane poljane / Ljumbard mountain (1,520 m), peak Veternik (2,461 m) and peak Krš Čvrlje (2,413 m) on Koprivnik, Dečani (550 m).

Note: Following the dissolution of SFR Yugoslavia in 1991, the Prokletije Transversal is no longer in function and has not been restored to this day. 

Mountaineering Calendar: Traditional Ascents and Expeditions

January | Traditional Memorial Ascent to Hajla (2,403 m) Dedicated to Safet Mavrić, an alpinist from Novi Pazar who perished during a winter climb near the summit.

• Access: Rožaje (Montenegro).
• Route: Bandžov hut (1,479 m) – Katun Brahim beg – Grope hut (1,880 m) – Mala gora pass – ridge walk northwest to the summit.
• Duration: 5 hours (one way).
• Elevation Gain: 924 m.
• Organizer: PSK “Hajla“ Rožaje.

March | Winter Expedition to the Highest Peak of the Dinarides – Maja e Jezercës (2,694 m) A high-altitude tour involving two nights of winter camping (bivouacking) near the former border outpost at Vusanjski Zastan (Montenegro) or in the Buni e Jezercës valley (Albania).

• Access: Gusinje (Montenegro).
• Route: Gornje Vusanje (980 m) – Oko Skakavice spring – Ropojana valley – Vusanjski Zastan (1,350 m) – Border stone B17 (1,774 m) – Buni i Jezercës (1,792 m) – Maja e Jezercës summit.
• Duration: 6 hours (one way).
• Elevation Gain: 1,714 m.
• Organizers: Mountaineering Association of Montenegro and PD “Hrid“ Plav.

March | Traditional Memorial Ascent to Očnjak / Maja njeri e kriyte – “The Frozen Man” (2,185 m) Dedicated to Zvonimir Blažina, a Belgrade alpinist who, along with Dušan Močilnik, completed the first winter ascent of this peak in 1963.

• Access: Gusinje (Montenegro).
• Route: “Branko Kotlajić“ hut (1,175 m) in Grbaja – Suljova česma – junction for Lugu e Kuq – right toward the eastern ridge – final ascent via snowy ledges and broken rock.
• Note: The final climb is highly demanding due to exposure and is intended only for experienced climbers with proper winter gear.
• Duration: 6 hours (one way).
• Elevation Gain: 1,010 m.
• Organizers: Belgrade Mountaineering Association, PD “Radnički,“ and PD “Pobeda“ Belgrade.

May | Memorial Ascent to Karaula (1,915 m) Dedicated to Zijo Ibrahimagić, a mountaineer from Gusinje and long-time president of PD “Karanfil.“

• Access: Gusinje (Montenegro).
• Route: “Branko Kotlajić“ hut (1,175 m) in Grbaja valley – marked “border trail” via serpentines to the pass (1,740 m) – right below the south face of Karaula (avoid the cliffs!) through the pine stands to the summit.
• Duration: 2.5 hours (one way).
• Elevation Gain: 740 m.
• Organizer: PK “Karanfil“ Gusinje.

June | “Peaks of the Balkans” (PoB) Cross-Border Trekking With the support of GTZ (German Technical Cooperation), this 130 km circular trail connects the most beautiful valleys across Montenegro, Kosovo, and Albania. The trek covers 6,500 m of total elevation gain over 10 days.

• The Route: Peja – Miliševac – Babino polje – Plav – Gusinje – Vusanje – Theth – Valbona – Doberdol – Peja.
• Tours are often organized in two stages:
  • Stage 1: Peja – Katun Nećinat – Kućište Lake – Babino polje – Plav.
  • Stage 2: Plav – Gusinje – Vusanje – Theth – Valbona – Qafa Preslopit – Vusanje.

June | Ascent to Guri i Kuq / formerly Žuti kamen (2,525 m)

• Access: Peja (Kosovo).
• Route: Katun Nećinat and Drešajt (1,450 m) – Kućište Lake (1,850 m) – Malji Nećinat (2,339 m) – Guri i Kuq summit.
• Duration: 5 hours (one way).
• Elevation Gain: 1,275 m.
• Organizer: PD “Gjeravica“ Peja.

July | Ascent to the Highest Peak of Kosovo – Đeravica / Maja e Gjeravicës (2,656 m)

• Access: Plav (Montenegro).
• Route: Katun Bogićevica (1,750 m) – Hodžin ravan (1,850 m) – Dvojnice (2,000 m) – Tropoja Lake (2,220 m) – Veliko Lake (2,340 m) – Đeravica summit.
• Duration: 6 hours (one way).
• Elevation Gain: 1,006 m.
• Organizer: PD “Hrid“ Plav.

August | Ascent to the Highest Peak of Montenegro – Zla Kolata / Kollata e Keqe (2,534 m)

• Access: Gusinje (Montenegro).
• Route: Gornje Vusanje village (980 m) – Zarunica – Fus Sirma – Qafa e Borit (1,780 m) – Ice Cave (Shpellë akulli) – Skripa – Zla Kolata summit.
• Duration: 6 hours (one way).
• Elevation Gain: 1,554 m.
• Organizer: PD “Hrid“ Plav.

Recommended Mountaineering Literature

• Zlatko Smerke, Rocks of Yugoslavia – Alpinist Guide, Book 1; Publisher: PD “Ravna Gora“, Varaždin, 1977.
• Branislav Cerović, Montenegrin Mountains – Selected Mountaineering Tours; Publisher: Slavko Radović, Vrbas, 2002.
• Miljan Radović & Rajko Marić, Montenegrin Prokletije – Nature, People, Tourism, Development; Publisher: Ministry of Tourism of Montenegro, Podgorica, 2002.
• Branko Kotlajić & Radonja Šekularac, Grbaja – The Gusinje Part of Prokletije – History, Anthropogeography, and Mountaineering Guide; Publisher: PD “Radnički“, Belgrade, 2003.
• Daniel Vincek, Ratko R. Popović & Mijo Kovačević, Mountains of Montenegro – A Guide for Mountaineers; Publisher: “Monitor“, Podgorica, 2004.
• Michal Kleslo, Across the Mountains of the Balkans: Bosnia and Herzegovina, Montenegro – Tourist Guide (in Czech); Publisher: SKY, Vresina, 2004.
• Rifat Mulić, Plav-Gusinje Prokletije – Forty Mountaineering Trails; Publisher: PD “Karanfili“, Gusinje, 2009.
• Mountaineering Guide: Hajla; Publisher: NGO Pogled and PK Pogled, Rožaje, 2010.
• Ervin Kalač, Mountains of the Rožaje Region – A Monograph; Rožaje, 2013.

Mountaineering and Topographic Maps

• Prokletije – Brada, Topographic Map 1:50,000; Toponymy collected and processed by Prof. Dr. Branimir Gušić in collaboration with Prof. Dr. Željko Poljak; compiled and produced by Mirko Marković. On the back of the map is a panoramic sketch from the summit of Maja e Ballës. Publisher: HPS Mountaineering Journal “Naše planine”, Zagreb, 1963.
• Prokletije – Mountaineering Map 1:75,000; Publisher: PSD “Đerovica” and the Tourist Association of the Peć Region, 1966.
• Prokletije – Hiking and Biking, Map 1:50,000; Publisher: Local Tourist Organization Plav with the support of GTZ (German Technical Cooperation), 2009.
• Topographic Maps 1:25,000 and 1:50,000 (1972) and 1:100,000 (1970); Edition: Military Geographical Institute (VGI) Belgrade.

Cover photo: Prokletije, border stone on the Maja Popadija ridge (2,030 m a.s.l.). Along the border line of the three neighboring states—Albania, Montenegro, and Kosovo—the old markings on the stone pyramids still stand: SFRJ (Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia) and SPSH (Republika Popullore e Shqipërisë / People's Socialist Republic of Albania).